Hair Experts Independent · Evidence graded Issue 05
Issue 05 · Autumn 2026

Hair, without
the folklore.

Six questions per issue about loss, scalp health and the things sold to fix them. Every claim carries a grade telling you how much of it rests on controlled evidence.

06Articles
04Topics
ZeroAdvertising
A hair shaft in longitudinal section, with a labelled cross-section showing the cuticle, cortex and medulla

The strand index

Six pieces, ordered by where they sit in a clinical conversation rather than by date.

6 of 6
01
A Evidence Loss & regrowth

Androgenetic Alopecia: What Actually Slows It Down

Two drugs have survived decades of controlled trials. Everything else on the shelf is either an adjuvant or a story with a price.

02
B Evidence Loss & regrowth

The Shed That Arrives Three Months Late

Telogen effluvium is the commonest cause of diffuse hair loss and the most over-investigated. Most of the tests ordered for it change nothing.

03
B Evidence Products

How Often You Wash Is Not a Medical Question

Sebum does not “rebound”. Sulfates are not the villain. And the float test cannot tell you your hair's porosity, because nothing can.

04
C Evidence Products

Bond Builders: Real Chemistry, Inflated Claims

The chemistry is genuine and the molecules do what the papers say. The claim that they “repair” hair is where the language quietly slips.

06
B Evidence Procedures

Transplants and PRP: Who Is Actually a Candidate

Graft survival in experienced hands is high. Candidate selection is where results are won, and where most disappointing outcomes begin.

Three things repeated in every salon

Open each one for what the evidence actually shows.

Sebum output is governed by androgens and gland biology. Nothing in the gland senses surface oil, so there is no feedback loop to train. Hair feels better on day three because a thicker oil film makes it lie flat — accumulation, not adaptation.

The transplanted hair is permanent. The scalp around it is not. Without medical treatment the native hair keeps receding, and the grafted band becomes an island. Surgery rearranges hair; it does not stop the process that removed it.

New cross-links do form, and the fibre is measurably stronger. They do not sit where the original bonds were, and some oxidised cysteines cannot be re-paired at all. The result is improvement, not restoration, and it reverses with the next colour.

What a grade means

Full method →

A

Randomised trials, or a meta-analysis that agrees with them.

The claim is supported by controlled comparisons in people. Effect size and population still matter.

B

One good trial, or consistent cohort data without randomisation.

Directionally sound, but the size of the effect is less certain and often overstated in coverage.

C

Mechanism, in-vitro work, small series, or marketing claims.

Plausible chemistry is not a clinical result. Treat these as hypotheses with a price tag.

Some shedding needs a clinician, not an article.

This site describes what studies found in populations. It cannot examine your scalp, and a page is not a diagnosis.

  • Sudden patchy loss, or smooth round patches with no scaling.
  • Scalp pain, burning, or scaling with pus, crusting or weeping.
  • Hair loss with fever, unexplained weight loss, or swollen lymph nodes.
  • Diffuse shedding alongside joint pain, rash, or unusual fatigue.
  • Loss confined to scarred, shiny skin where no follicle openings remain.
  • Any scaling in a child, where a fungal infection must be excluded first.

If any of these apply, see a dermatologist or your GP before spending money on a treatment.